Clicking/Rattle when pedalling

[msconfig]

Hey BNA,

Just have a (hopefully) small problem which I think I may know how to solve but wanted to double check. Basically whenever I pedal, at every quarter revolution or so I would hear a metal click or rattling sound and it's not pleasent I took the chain off the front chainring (just to isolate the cause) and I started pedalling and it still made the noise, so it's most likely not the chain, casette or rear hub. It sounds the loudest about half way on the downtube and I've removed my pump/bottle cage from the downtube just to make sure it wasn't causing a rattle and the noise still persisted. Basically it sounds like this:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=67LN4So7kAQ" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

That bike seems to rattle more than mine at low revolutions, but if he spins his pedals fast, the noise seems to go away. Mine does not go away.

My take on this is that the bottom bracket (BB30) needs some work and I'm hoping it just needs some greasing, or just the little bearing cartridges. Has anyone got a take on this? The wierd thing is that the sound is loudest on the downtube (imo). Is that normal?

Should I be right if I follow this guide (if it is what I suspect it is): http://www.bikeradar.com/gear/article/w ... ets-29544/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

[cooperplace]

my wife's Specialized bike had an FSA BB and crankset and after about 3000km it started making a nasty clicking sound. On removing the BB, the RHS bearing had a rough action when turned by hand. I threw everything FSA out and replaced it all with Shimano hollowtech, which was cheap, and put on a new chain for good measure. All beautiful now. But does not the BB30 push in? An added complication.

It sounds as though you need a new bottom bracket.

[Mulger bill]

I'd personally be inclined to fit a BSA adaptor and run the crankset of your choice, too many people have had problems with BB30 by my readings.
The idea of the bearings being supported on the inner side by a titchy little circlip fills me with inconfidence...

[msconfig]

I threw everything FSA out and replaced it all with Shimano hollowtech, which was cheap, and put on a new chain for good measure. All beautiful now. But does not the BB30 push in? An added complication.

It sounds as though you need a new bottom bracket.

I'd personally be inclined to fit a BSA adaptor and run the crankset of your choice, too many people have had problems with BB30 by my readings.

I haven't considered changing to a Hollowtech II although the both of you are starting to give me ideas which I'm seriously considering. I've done a bit of research but clearly not enough to give me confidence which I hope someone in here will fill in the details of. Most results on google come up with the use of an adapter which I'm not a fan of, but may have no choice if that's where I want to head.

Just to double check, are the parts below all I need:
1. BB30 to Hollowtech/BSA adapter. Example KCMC, Wheel MFG and Praxisworks. http://fairwheelbikes.com/kcnc-bb30-roa ... -2926.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
2. Shimano Hollowtech II bottom bracket: http://www.this link is broken/shimano-105-570 ... t-cup-set/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
3. Shimano Crankset: http://www.this link is broken/shimano-105-575 ... -chainset/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Whereas if I choose to continue using my FSA BB30, all I'd need to replace is: http://www.this link is broken/fsa-bb30-road-bottom-bracket/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Am I on the right track?

[bosvit]

The last two times I thought my bottom bracket (bb30) was pooped I was wrong.

First time it was the head set, second time it was a creaking front wheel holder oner thingy.

If the sound seems to be coming from the down tube check your head set and make sure your front wheel is done up nice and tight.

If it is your bb replace your fsa with a sram one. Much cheaper than the other suggestions and BB30 is lighter and stiffer than any of the shimano options, but not as durable.

It will only take a couple of minutes to pull the crankset off and check the bearing. If it doesn't feel rough it is unlikely the problem

[msconfig]

The last two times I thought my bottom bracket (bb30) was pooped I was wrong.

First time it was the head set, second time it was a creaking front wheel holder oner thingy.

If the sound seems to be coming from the down tube check your head set and make sure your front wheel is done up nice and tight.

If it is your bb replace your fsa with a sram one. Much cheaper than the other suggestions and BB30 is lighter and stiffer than any of the shimano options, but not as durable.

It will only take a couple of minutes to pull the crankset off and check the bearing. If it doesn't feel rough it is unlikely the problem

The sound exists even if I remove the wheel so it's probably not that. I've tightened the headset and it seems fine. I'm almost convinced its the bottom bracket but I'm having issues removing the crank just to look at what's going on. Googling around makes it seem like such an easy process.

i've found out that I have a self-extracting crank bolt and I'm unsure of how to losen it. Basically my crank looks like this:



except mine is a M25 retaining cap rather than an M17. Anyhow they look the same. The hex key size is 10mm.. I've tried turning the hex key but it won't budge at all. Could someone let me know how I can remove my crank? It seems impossible at this stage


EDIT: So according to this guide: http://www.pinkbike.com/news/Tech-Tuesd ... -2012.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; the cranks are more or less suppose to easily come off with just an allen key. Am I correct in turning the allen key in the opposite direction to the "tighten" arrow on the bottom bracket?

[Mulger bill]

Forget what the bottom bracket says, that's showing you which way to turn the cups.

It should be an ordinary bolt. Lefty loosie with the 10mm key, the bolt as it loosens will push against the cap which will remove the crank.

More Weetbix required

[msconfig]

Forget what the bottom bracket says, that's showing you which way to turn the cups.

It should be an ordinary bolt. Lefty loosie with the 10mm key, the bolt as it loosens will push against the cap which will remove the crank.

More Weetbix required

Alright so I gave it a go last night and managed to get my cranks off. Had a brief look, put some grease around the bearings and it's now silent (for now anyway). Thanks for the help guys

[Mulger bill]