Repco Appreciation Society

[munga]

later model drivetrain on a cr-mo frameset. same as my old oly 14 - about '95 i'm guessing.

[DavidI]

it's taken me a bit longer than planned, what with being stuck in Bundaberg and then having to clean up my rain-affected Mt Tamborine garage when I got back, but I finally got around to scanning the last of my Repco Catalogues, from 89-90 I believe (unlike earlier editions, there's no date!):
http://s648.beta.photobucket.com/user/D ... co%2089-90" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
They seem to have uploaded in reverse order but you'll get the gist

[HappyHumber]

Looks remarkably like a TIG welded steel Olympic 14 frame I have - just painted silver. The livery and fonts are identical apart from the 14/16 difference. Mine is stickered 4130 - but I dare say it's just the main triangle. Probably plain guage by the weight of it. Cheaper componentry from what was left on mine. The brake bridge/crown aren't even recessed.

That said, it should make a serviceable runabout.

Repco Olympic 16? Didn't know such a beast existed: http://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/avenell- ... 1013012273" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Re cray- » Thu Jan 24, 2013 1:30 pm "Repco Olympic 16"
Hmmm....looks like welded aluminium with Uncrown fork....I'd suggest avoid like the plague. If it is Aluminium there is no fatigue free zone so cracks/tears at the welds are only km's away, if its T6 Aluminium you cannot repair it because you cannot heat treat the frame following welding repairs...Steel is real and repairable... keep/stick with the Nishki Cray..

Mine's also unicrown fork. I think these were the death knell of the Olympic series by about this time. Giant were becoming the omnipotent budget bike and the Repco branding was soon to be buried for a while at least.

I wouldn't mind butchering those god-awful looking tri-bars to make a couple of bar extensions for the Audax bike

[olympic12]

been absent for a while.
i have been busy riding for the past few weeks, and just ordered a new Madone Trek bike =D (still waiting though...)
anyway, thanks DavidI for the awesome 89/90 catalog.
turns out to be that for Olympic 12, the last Giant made frames (535PR CR MO) are the ones made in 1988/1989 - my bike model year.
the 89/90 olympic 12 (as seen on DavidI last catalog) used the 4130 tubing (even though the catalog didnt say that) - how do I know?
look at this:

http://www.bicycles.net.au/forums/viewt ... =9&t=14993

i previously thought the 4130 tubing first appeared on olympic 14 but turns out to be not the case. it first appeared on 89/90 olympic 12.
from what I understand, the Giant 535PR frame is better than the 4130.
cheers.

[cray-]

Looks remarkably like a TIG welded steel Olympic 14 frame I have - just painted silver. <snip>
That said, it should make a serviceable runabout.

Hmmm....looks like welded aluminium with Uncrown fork....I'd suggest avoid like the plague. <snip>...Steel is real and repairable... keep/stick with the Nishki Cray..

Thanks for the information & concern gentlemen, rest assured I had no interest in adding it to the collection, just sharing a curiosity.

[Rob74]

Re: DavidI » Tue Jan 15, 2013 12:52 pm
"earlier models had unbranded saddles (my 86/87 Olympic 12 certainly had no markings on it)."

Stamped/embossed in the black plastic base on the underside at the rear of the Saddle
1987/88 Olympic 12 - Viscount 2169 + Viscount Quality Control Sticker.
1988/89 Euro Sport Tria - AriAKE Aero Jaguar II 7378 Japan "88" "2" + "Eurosport" across the rear of the saddle in black lettering.
1987/88 Vertex - AriAKE Aero Jaguar II 7378 Japan "87" "6" + "Medalist" across the rear of the saddle in black lettering.

Rob

[frank2112]

frank2112 wrote That is the first red/white and blue Victory I have seen apart from mine. Both bikes look to be in very nice condition.

Hi frank, dug back to find your bike, looks good!. Is it up and running yet or still in the project stage?

Well here's some more red/white and blue goodness


Exhibit B:













My daughter's one isn't quite as 'unchanged' as mentioned previously , pretty much original except for the tange headset, seat and normal consumables. No major gruppo changes except the eggs are gone.

Suntour codes on this one are dec 89.



Both have 4 prong 12-18T . Not really the best around here for the terrain, but even my daughter said "just leave them alone dad"

Were calling them our "fixies- with fast options"

Andrew

Finally got a completed photo of mine. Haven't riidden it much as the gearing is not suited to my fitness level yet.

[beenoll]

Hi,
I have 2 questions, hoepfully there's an easy answer for each...

1. I'm after a replacement fork for an '88 Olympic 12 rebuild - any suggestions (threadless is okay), or how do I measure the geometry to search for a new one?
2. I've seen pics on the forum of new-looking Shimano 105 brakes on bikes without STI, do you still get the required leverage or should I use R650's? I'm replacing Exage brakes that have had it.

Thanks

[redrover3]

I'm after a replacement fork for an '88 Olympic 12 rebuild - any suggestions (threadless is okay), or how do I measure the geometry to search for a new one?

When you say replacement, do you mean original type or are you looking for something other than original?
I have the original fork off my '88 Olympic 12. 53cm frame.
Tony

[wqlava1]

Hi,
I have 2 questions, hoepfully there's an easy answer for each...
2. I've seen pics on the forum of new-looking Shimano 105 brakes on bikes without STI, do you still get the required leverage or should I use R650's? I'm replacing Exage brakes that have had it.

Thanks

The dual pivot brakes will work better than the old single-pivot brakes it came with, with the old levers. A rule of thumb i was told was that if the distance from the pivot for the lever to the pivot for the little round block that the cable terminates in is less than 31mm it is intended for a road or canti brake, and if over 31mm, then V-brakes. V-brakes obviously need a bit more movement but have inherent extra leverage. This is intended to be a generalization - feel welcome someone to enhance my explanation.

[beenoll]

I'm after a replacement fork for an '88 Olympic 12 rebuild - any suggestions (threadless is okay), or how do I measure the geometry to search for a new one?

When you say replacement, do you mean original type or are you looking for something other than original?
I have the original fork off my '88 Olympic 12. 53cm frame.
Tony

Hi Tony,
Mine's a 58cm. I'll measure the steerer tube to check for length.
Brendan

[beenoll]

[/quote]
The dual pivot brakes will work better than the old single-pivot brakes it came with, with the old levers. A rule of thumb i was told was that if the distance from the pivot for the lever to the pivot for the little round block that the cable terminates in is less than 31mm it is intended for a road or canti brake, and if over 31mm, then V-brakes. V-brakes obviously need a bit more movement but have inherent extra leverage. This is intended to be a generalization - feel welcome someone to enhance my explanation.[/quote]

Thanks, the old Exage calipers don't move much at all, time to get the ruler out.
Or maybe an STI conversion.......

[redrover3]

Hi Brenden, don't bother measuring. Mine will be miles too short.
Tony

[wqlava1]

I'm after a replacement fork for an '88 Olympic 12 rebuild - any suggestions (threadless is okay), or how do I measure the geometry to search for a new one?

When you say replacement, do you mean original type or are you looking for something other than original?
I have the original fork off my '88 Olympic 12. 53cm frame.
Tony

Hi Tony,
Mine's a 58cm. I'll measure the steerer tube to check for length.
Brendan

Just a fortnight ago, I just used a fork off a 61 or 62cm olympic 12 that I'd bought in Bris, picked up and lugged back on the plane to Mel, taken to Perth where i worked for a year but never got around to rebuilding it, took it home to Mel, took it to Adel where I worked last year, then as I started to build it up worked out it had a broken chainstay near the BB which must have been why he sold it! I hacksawed off the frame behind the headstem (no headset spanner with me at the time) and brought just the forks back to Mel. I used it on a nice Giant Kronos 1997 frame I got in Perth (from rustguard on this forum) on a build with ratios aimed at climbing.

I'm not offering the fork above, but I can guide you a bit as to what you are looking for. The Olympic 12 was one of the earlier reasonable mass market frames with recessed road brakes (not nutted) whilst still having lugged shoulders on the fork, not unicrown. It has very little clearance for more than a 25mm road tyre - maybe the odd 28mm tyre might fit but a mm of mud or sand on the tyre from a puddle will scrape away at the rear brake bridge and the top of inside the fork. It is difficult to get older looking forks that go with a lugged frame that are long enough in the steerer for you (let alone me) and that take recessed brakes rather than the old nutted ones. When you do get a good fork, don't cut it down - add some spacers (which your LBS can get in as part number 3094 or 3095 from
http://www.bicyclepartswholesale.com.au ... et_03.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
) and leave it whole just in case the next bike it gets used on needs it a little longer. None of us is getting more flexible with time (that I see) so it won't hurt, and even if you can get the thread cut further down, it is much cheaper to use more spacers than get the groove lengthened!

You will find that almost any set of forks you can find will have about the right rake. If willing to get an alloy fork you might get one that isn't as ugly as the rather obviously welded nutted unicrown forks.

[beenoll]

Hi Brenden, don't bother measuring. Mine will be miles too short.
Tony

Hi Tony, thanks for checking it out for me.
Brendan

[beenoll]

My Superlite has unicrown forks and Hutchinson 700x23 tyres, my Vantage (for chasing the kids around the park) has Schwalbe 28mm city tyres, which fit easily. Both of these bikes are original barring the saddle, tyres and other soft parts.
On the Oly, only the frame and a few bits are in good shape, so I can have some fun doing it up and whatever looks good will be the go (except carbon, that will look like I'm trying to hard)... Of course, I should have realised forks from a Giant of the period would fit. I'll scour the internet and see what comes up.
Thanks again.

[redrover3]

turns out to be that for Olympic 12, the last Giant made frames (535PR CR MO) are the ones made in 1988/1989 - my bike model year.
the 89/90 olympic 12 (as seen on DavidI last catalog) used the 4130 tubing (even though the catalog didnt say that) - how do I know?
look at this:

My frame is the above mentioned 535PR CR MO from 88/89. Clearance is very tight under the seatstay (brake) bridge. I doubt that I could get a 25mm tyre in there. Mine did have a unicrown fork from original which wasn't very tight for clearance at all. I replaced it with an alloy as I'm not keen on the unicrown. Some unicrown forks look better than others IMO. The ones on the victory on a previous post look quite ok. Below is how the alloy looks on my Olympic 12.
Tony

[cray-]

A few photos of my earlier Olympic 12 fork and rear brake bridge for comparison. Not super tight. (Click for larger versions on Flickr)


This one from after my stack which ruined the first panto'd fork:


Still on the hunt for another metallic red Nishiki "N" pantographed fork if anyone has one laying around.

[Crowz]

Looks like Repco prices are on the up. Just sold my Eurosport last week.

[Dan]

What are you building James? Not sure about Repco prices being on the up though. Unless of course you can sell it for $500.

[Crowz]

What are you building James? Not sure about Repco prices being on the up though. Unless of course you can sell it for $500.

I've gone over to the dark side and purchased my first new (road) bike. Still trawling over the internet to find "that" frame that I can build up. The repco sold for more than I bought it for actually, $350 to a Brisbane fellow.

[akq]

Just posted a couple of auctions on ebay,just to clarify I am the seller,they are kerbside bike so i know nothing about them any questions please ask before auction close or come and view.Apologies if this is against forum rules but just wanted to honest and disclose that I am the seller,happy to consider reasonable offers for one or both

Now posted in the marketplace section as per the RULEZ

[munga]

so five posts and they're all about kerbside clunkers you're selling.. reckon you're riding the gravy train a bit here mate.

[Dan]

I'd direct you to the marketplace rules section that says 'spruiking of eBay sales and the like is not permitted' but of course its not actually called that, and I couldn't actually be bothered.

[akq]

Not sure what I have done wrong but if you are not interested dont bid