open topic, for anything cycling related.
21 posts • Page 1 of 1
http://www.kickstarter.com/projects/486 ... f=category
this would be nice for changing tyres, great idea..
Nice idea that seems to work well. But I reckon their video is grossly overplaying the 'difficulty' of removing a standard QR road wheel. In the time it takes him to unwind that QR I would have had the back wheel out. And dirty hands ?? You're not doing it right man.
Riding bikes in traffic - what seems dangerous is usually safe; what seems safe is often more dangerous.
Handy if you need to replace a drive side spoke, no cassette to take off.
They will require 2 versions for road & mtb unless road changes to 135mm widths
How easy will it be remove the cassette tho if that needs removing for any reason
Masi Speciale CX 2008 - Brooks B17 special saddle, Garmin Edge 810
If I read the video right, there's no full width axle between the dropouts, not sure how I feel about that...
London Boy 29/12/2011
Yes, I think the QR they use threads into a separate stub axle that is fixed to the right drop-out and supports the cassette. This is then tensioned by the QR..... strength ??
Pretty much my concerns. I really wonder about the load bearing capacity and ability to handle some abuse, eg hard drops on MTBs
Please don't assume I'm on Facebook.
Ah, yes. Like this one - the Sachs Galaxie ?
Not so sure that it would dismantle while still fixed in the frame
Ideas a good so having a go needs to be commended - would be boring without.
With the help of the example sachs image from il padrone, I am not sure that that lack of the through axel is really as serious as suggested.
What the video and description does not do well is to show the actual connection, though the wheel doesn't slip out, as romantic as the notion seems, there is still some kind of insert of the hub part into the freewheel part... the wheel needs to be pulled left (releasing) and then pulled out.
For MTB I can however understand that a single through axel makes sense.
The advantages of the system are a bit over the top considering how "bad" standard wheel removal is. On my MTB I need to turn the skewer a lot on the front wheel to remove it from the forks... the turning, turning, turning is not that much different... but agree that this system keeps it all a bit cleaner.
Yup, sure will! Once you pull the 'Q/R' axle from the l/h side there is a spacer on the left of the hub which drops out allowing you to move the wheel to the left, disengage the hub from the freewheel and thus remove the wheel. Works pretty good on the road but building wheels on these hubs is a pain due to the weird axle fittings. I had to turn up a 'dummy axle' fitting for my wheel building jig when I built up the wheel using this hub.
Are those exposed bearings in the cassette/freehub?
Looks like there would be a look of risk of getting dirt in there, especially if you accidentally put the wheel down on the wrong side.
Only if you have very poor standards of workmanship. Before I do any work on my bike, I always always always vacuum the lounge room carpet.
Nobody younger than <del>27</del> 28 has experienced a month cooler than the 20th century average.
There are many rear hubs now available where the freehub can be removed with virtually a quick twist of the hands once the skewer is removed. So the issue of dust sealing between the hub and free hub is not much of a drama.
Axle strength is a non issue too as long as the right materials are used. 15mm QR front axles in MTB are common enough, made of hollow aluminum tube and they screw into a fitting on one side of the fork. Don't hear much about those breaking. As long as the stub axle of this product is appropriately torqued once fitted up is should be a strong as any other through axle. Potentially even stronger given the axle dimensions required.
While I agree its probably a solution to a problem that isn't perceived to exist for most riders...if it works then it's actually quite clever. Changing a flat on the new breed of bolted rear axle MTBs could actually be not a pain in the bum. But also most other average treadlies out there. It might might make the perception of cycling far more acceptable to a wider cross section of the community instead of a small sub-culture of smugly self righteous nutter like ourselves. Oh the horror.
Ours is not to reason why...merely to point and giggle
I have a deore hub with a 5mm steel trek threaded QR that threads into a mounted boss on the dropout. The QR survived some riding with a broken axle - and the shimano hub itself doesn't collapse if the axle breaks. The axle makes a lot of noise (hindsight) before it breaks, and (hindsight) the resistance increases considerably once broken. ie I find the shimano system safety tolerant to broken axles.
That has a 10mm steel QR that clamps it all together - ie the joint can be under significantly greater clamping force than my rear hubs QR can provide. ie the concern that the joint might fret and collapse or the hollow axle break and the joint collapse probably isn't a strong one - the axle/QR combo should be very strong. I do wonder about the short lever on the QR though.
There is the odd claims that he makes that I distrust. He claims the axle of a standard hub does not penetrate the dropout and that I rely on the QR, which is wrong - the axle ends penetrate the dropout - the QR is there to hold the drop out on the axle end. His claims of light weight are pretty laughable. Its 25g lighter than my entry level disc MTB hub with disc mounting boss that is also wider, and its much heavier than an ultegra or dura ace rear hub.
21 posts • Page 1 of 1
Who is online