How to avoid cassette damaging the free-hub-body?

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Re: How to avoid cassette damaging the free-hub-body?

Postby kimmie » Wed May 08, 2013 10:48 am

I found this BBB BTL-12 tool on Wiggle...

Image

one reviewer said:

"Does exactly what it's supposed to. Fitted a new cassette (having never done it before) and it couldn't have been easier. I was unsure how much to tighten the lockring but the wrench has a kind of built in torque wrench; when you reach a certain level of torque the tool 'slips' so you don't over do it. Thoroughly recommended."


What does he mean with 'slip'? Anyone with a same (or similar) tool would like to share if this BBB BTL-12 tool really has a 'built-in torque wrench'? Because it does, then I will just buy this one... will save me heaps of money rather than buying a separate torque wrench and a lock-ring tool.

Cheers
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by BNA » Wed May 08, 2013 11:29 am

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Re: How to avoid cassette damaging the free-hub-body?

Postby Crawf » Wed May 08, 2013 11:29 am

petal665 wrote:You will need to get an LBS to order them in. Even using the pins, I still get my DT240 freehubs chewed out, but not as badly as without them.


petal, where'd you get yours from? I keep my contact to a minimum with any BS's in Brisbane.
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Re: How to avoid cassette damaging the free-hub-body?

Postby silentbutdeadly » Wed May 08, 2013 12:09 pm

kimmie wrote:I found this BBB BTL-12 tool on Wiggle...


No it doesn't have a built in torque wrench. I suspect that the user has simply overwhelmed the fixing between the handle and the head of the tool. Whether or not it has 'failed' at 40nM is anyone's guess.

You can buy a good quality Toledo brand 1/2 drive torque wrench that is perfect for cassette lockrings for sixty dollars at your local AIS Tool shoppe at the moment. 3/8 drive is cheaper at $50.
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Re: How to avoid cassette damaging the free-hub-body?

Postby petal665 » Wed May 08, 2013 12:23 pm

Crawf wrote:petal, where'd you get yours from? I keep my contact to a minimum with any BS's in Brisbane.


Indeed. Fusion ordered me in a set.
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Re: How to avoid cassette damaging the free-hub-body?

Postby eeksll » Wed May 08, 2013 4:39 pm

petal665 wrote:
Crawf wrote:petal, where'd you get yours from? I keep my contact to a minimum with any BS's in Brisbane.


Indeed. Fusion ordered me in a set.


what cassette do you use?

I use a 105 cassette and hence use the 105 pins, the ultegra and durace "pins"/tabs look like they would do a better job.
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Re: How to avoid cassette damaging the free-hub-body?

Postby petal665 » Wed May 08, 2013 4:46 pm

Ultegra. I seem to have misplaced my 105 and DA items.
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Re: How to avoid cassette damaging the free-hub-body?

Postby Saturnstarzz » Wed May 08, 2013 5:47 pm

kimmie wrote:I am thinking to buy one of these...

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/130746502327?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649

but I do need a 'bit' that goes in between that 'thing' (the torque wrench) and my 'lock ring', don't I? Will something like this (below link) works?

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/CASSETTE-LOCKRING-TOOL-w-GUIDE-PIN-Shimano-SRAM-Center-Lock-Disc-Brakes-Bike-/171002692065?pt=AU_Cycling_New_&hash=item27d08e01e1&_uhb=1

I tried to find out what the 'end' of that last bit from eBay look like, but couldn't find anything. Can anyone who has one of those confirm if it has a square opening that will fit the 'torque wrench'?




jacks1071 wrote:
kimmie wrote:Do I need to get a proper torque wrench for tighten the lock ring? Apparently my BBB Torque Wrench won't do 40nM. If I just buy a 'generic' torque wrench from Bunnings or SuperCheapAuto, what 'number' do I need that will fit the lock ring?


You'll need a big boy torque wrench. Probably Super Cheap Auto or Repco would be your lowest price. Also handy for checking the wheel nuts on your car after its been serviced.

My lockring tool requires a 1/2" bit, maybe take the lockring socket with you to ensure you buy the right size torque wrench.

Thats what I have a supatools torque wrench ( handy for bottom brackets) and my cassette lockring tool fits on the end, dab of grease makes it easier to get on and off the torque wrench end and always put the wrench back to 0 to keep it calibrated.
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Re: How to avoid cassette damaging the free-hub-body?

Postby Saturnstarzz » Wed May 08, 2013 5:53 pm

kimmie wrote:I found this BBB BTL-12 tool on Wiggle...

Image

one reviewer said:

"Does exactly what it's supposed to. Fitted a new cassette (having never done it before) and it couldn't have been easier. I was unsure how much to tighten the lockring but the wrench has a kind of built in torque wrench; when you reach a certain level of torque the tool 'slips' so you don't over do it. Thoroughly recommended."


What does he mean with 'slip'? Anyone with a same (or similar) tool would like to share if this BBB BTL-12 tool really has a 'built-in torque wrench'? Because it does, then I will just buy this one... will save me heaps of money rather than buying a separate torque wrench and a lock-ring tool.

Cheers

Kimmie i have the same tool and it DOESNT have torque settings . With "slip' the head of the wrench moves and you can feel a click/ bump through the body of the wrench when you hit the required torque, stops you from over tightening
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Re: How to avoid cassette damaging the free-hub-body?

Postby Mozzar » Mon May 13, 2013 1:48 pm

The best and cheapest way is to use loctite 222 to bond the cassette to the cassette body which makes the cassette act as one and you will therefore have less marks on your cassette body. The expensive way is to get an expensive cassette like a Sram XX, XO or Red as they have all the cogs joined and are running of the large cog. They are expensive and not always worth the expense.
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Re: How to avoid cassette damaging the free-hub-body?

Postby Crawf » Mon May 13, 2013 2:19 pm

Mozzar wrote:The best and cheapest way is to use loctite 222 to bond the cassette to the cassette body which makes the cassette act as one and you will therefore have less marks on your cassette body.


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Re: How to avoid cassette damaging the free-hub-body?

Postby Mozzar » Mon May 13, 2013 6:07 pm

With using loctite 222 to bond the cassette to the cassette body it is only the weakest loctite and the cassette will still come off and stop the damage to the cassette body. I can guarantee that this will work as i have done this before and have had hardly any damage to my cassette body.

The loctite is just there to take up the space between the cassette and the cassette body to try and eliminate all movement.
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Re: How to avoid cassette damaging the free-hub-body?

Postby petal665 » Mon May 13, 2013 6:25 pm

And what happens when you take your cassette off each week for cleaning?
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Re: How to avoid cassette damaging the free-hub-body?

Postby toolonglegs » Mon May 13, 2013 6:28 pm

petal665 wrote:And what happens when you take your cassette off each week for cleaning?

They haul you away for being addictive compulsive and your freewheel looks perfect for ever :mrgreen: .
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Re: How to avoid cassette damaging the free-hub-body?

Postby Mulger bill » Mon May 13, 2013 7:35 pm

toolonglegs wrote:
petal665 wrote:And what happens when you take your cassette off each week for cleaning?

They haul you away for being addictive compulsive and your freewheel looks perfect for ever :mrgreen: .

You mean you don't? :shock:
Please tell us you at least use the ShelBroCo chain cleaning system...
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