Tick/click noise from BB/Crank every rotation

[Pravda]

I'm getting an annoying, and quite loud, click/tick noise from my crank or bottom bracket every time my drive-side pedal goes past the horizontal (3 o'clock) position.
I've checked the chain ring bolts and the pedals and they're all tight. The more power I put into the pedals the louder it is, down to just spinning and I can't hear it at all.
Any thoughts on the source or remedy? It's a BB30 with an FSA crankset.
Cheers.

[r2160]

Do you have a cadence magnet on your off side crank? It may be that your cadence magnet might be hitting your possible sensor, or your speed magnet on your back wheel might be hitting the sensor as well.

Dont ask how I know

cheers
Glenn

[Pravda]

Hmmm I do. Ill need to check that. Though I've had that happen before and noticed it pretty quickly. It's also a more solid metallic noise than the cadence magnet would make I think.

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[familyguy]

FD cable flicking crank arm?

Jim

[bychosis]

Had a nstry click sound from a worn BB before. Only diagnosed it as that after checking all manner of other points, including suspension bearings. Only happened under load and usually in the same spot. Took the chain off and could feel the rumble in the BB.

[Slvr32gtr]

My friend had the same thing happening on his bike and it turned out to be the bearings in his Shimano clip in pedals. It was also dependant on the load placed on it, making it louder the harder he pedalled.

Worth checking out and ruling out anyway!

[Pravda]

Had a nstry click sound from a worn BB before. Only diagnosed it as that after checking all manner of other points, including suspension bearings. Only happened under load and usually in the same spot. Took the chain off and could feel the rumble in the BB.

I'm hoping that's not the case as the bike is only 6 months old, it has been ridden in some wet weather over the last week or so though.

[Tim]

BB30. That is most likely to be your problem.
The press fit cartridge bearings often move under load inside the frame/bearing housing.
Unless the frame/bearing tolerances are precisely machined the bearings are prone to movement. It is a very common problem with BB30. I have this system on one of my bikes and it has been a constant PITA.
The solution is to remove or replace the existing bearings and refit them using Loctite #641(I think, but check for sure) to effectively glue them in place and prevent the movement and noise.
I wouldn't recommend BB30 to my worst enemy. I won't get caught again. BB30 is a very poor design.

[FXST01]

Have you tried tightening your crank arms?

[scotto]

Check your rear quick release is nice and tight

[nickobec]

Last time I had something similar, it was a loose cleat bolt

[DoogleDave]

Yep, sounds like the dreaded BB30 creak to me.
I too had a very similar issue and could barely hear it when turning the cranks slowly by handbut when loading the cranks during riding the creak began getting louder.

I had this issue on my Felt about 3-6 months from new and took it back to the shop.
They pulled the BB apart and put it back together again and it's been fine for the last 5000 km's.

Unfortunately, a design flaw that most frame manufacturers don't adhere to very well (re: very tight tolerances)

Dave

[wicksey]

+1 for rear quick release.

[bychosis]

My failed BB was on my MTB, a hollow tech shimano external BB. Had done around 2000km, but a lot of pretty ordinary conditions though. Compare that to the cartridge square taper BB that has done well over 5000km, and a lot of mud etc with no sign of failing yet.

[macca33]

Mine - only about 1400km old then - got noisy a few weeks back, so I pulled it apart, gave it a GOOD clean-out, re-greased and bolted the crank arm on to the specified torque and it has been good for around 400Km now - no noise at all.

Mine started after a big wet ride, so it may have been due to water ingress, I reckon.

cheers

[Pravda]

OK, the noise mysteriously disappeared for my ride home from work today.
However I checked QR skewer (it's tight) and pedals which are fine.
I gather I need a special tool to remove a BB30 so I guess if the noise comes back, which I think it will, I'll invest in one and have a poke around.

[macca33]

OK, the noise mysteriously disappeared for my ride home from work today.
However I checked QR skewer (it's tight) and pedals which are fine.
I gather I need a special tool to remove a BB30 so I guess if the noise comes back, which I think it will, I'll invest in one and have a poke around.

If it is the FSA SL-K crankset, no - just use a 10mm (as I recall???) Hex wrench / socket and turn it anti-clockwise - the crank arm self-extracts. To remove the BB30 bearings, you will need a BB bearing punch-out tool jigger and to install, a BB bearing press tool. I reckon if you take the crank and seals off, give it a good clean and grease, you may be right without changing the bearings - worth a shot anyway.

cheers

[Pravda]

It's an FSA Gossamer, haven't had look since reading that but I'll cross fingers it's easy.

[Pravda]

Alright I've narrowed this down to the BB, I'm going to leave the proper fixing of it to the LBS next week but I've got a race on this bike tomorrow, anyone have any ideas on a quickfix?
I've got a 10mm alen key and I think that means I should be able to get the crank off.
Is it worth loading it up with grease and letting the LBS deal with it next week?

[simonn]

I checked QR skewer (it's tight)

Tight enough? Grease the dropouts and then put the rear wheel on again tightly. Had similar problem with my CX and this solved it.

[Gerry.M]

Alright I've narrowed this down to the BB, I'm going to leave the proper fixing of it to the LBS next week but I've got a race on this bike tomorrow, anyone have any ideas on a quickfix?
I've got a 10mm alen key and I think that means I should be able to get the crank off.
Is it worth loading it up with grease and letting the LBS deal with it next week?

I used to get the same after riding in rain/dirt. Click, click with every rotation with power.

Got the BB replaced with a sealed unit (apparently the old one wasn't) and been happy days since.

As a quick fix, I used to clean as much grit out of it as possible and pump some oil or grease in there, but that was only a temporary solution.

[Pravda]

I used to get the same after riding in rain/dirt. Click, click with every rotation with power.

Got the BB replaced with a sealed unit (apparently the old one wasn't) and been happy days since.

As a quick fix, I used to clean as much grit out of it as possible and pump some oil or grease in there, but that was only a temporary solution.

Yeah might do that, I've got it booked in for a replacement on Tuesday.

[Pravda]

Stripped down cleaned and regreased the BB. Its silent and smooth after a quick 10km spin. Will see how it goes racing tomorrow.

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[rikwall]

I have same problem> BB replaced twice but told by mechanic that problem is related to use of press fit BB30 plastic bearing case in crank. Tends to move incrementally when pedalling and movement results in loud clicking noise which gets louder under load. Currently in dialogue with Kona sales rep regarding solution but apparently problem has been known for some time without definitive solution being found. Will update on progress if any.

[im_no_pro]

Last time I had something similar, it was a loose cleat bolt

Wish I had read this a week ago..... took me ages to figure out that was my problem also