600 levers are not symmetrical. The right side lever is different to the left side lever. So I will be going through both left and right sides in this guide.
RIGHT SIDE
Use a 2mm allen key to remove this grub screw. Theres a little threadlock so it may be tight.
Get some sort of tool(4mm key in this case) to push out the pivot.
Now you can remove the lever from the body. Use a knife or flat edged tool to peel off the 600 badge.
Use a 8mm socket to unscrew the nameplate screw. Make sure youre holding onto both the name plate and the lever when unscrewing, otherise there is a possibility that the name plate will go flying off as its connected to a loaded spring.
Carefully lift whilst twisting the name plate off. You will be greeted with this spring. This is different to the assembly of the new Sora(3300) and 105(5500) levers, but exactly the same as the RX100 and RSX. Id say its much more easy to dismantle and rebuild because the spring is here.
Flip to the backside of the lever, and push over the smaller lever to reveal a Phillips screw. Unscrew this, and be careful of a small screw washer behind.
Now the large lever can be pulled off to reveal the innards. I believe this would be the lever that has the most gummed up grease. Its filthy!
Proceed with cleaning up the old grease using whatever means you like(I like to use petrol). A quick soak allowed me to brush if all off. Once cleaned up, apply grease to the pawls.
LEFT SIDEIt is not entirely the same as the right lever, but its still close enough to the right side to dismantle.
2mm allen key
Peel off the badge, and unscrew with the 8mm socket. Remove the name plate as above.
Flip it over and push over the small lever to reveal a Phillips screw.
Lever comes right off to reveal the innards. Now this side was dry as! Sand and dirt managed to get inside.
Clean up the grease with fuel, or degreaser.
And out comes a clean lever. But theres an issue with this one. If you look carefully, one trim position has sheared off. It still holds the gear alright, but theres always the chance of it slipping.
Both levers can go back together in the opposite way they came apart, so back trace, and you shouldnt have a problem. The badges need to be glued back on, unless you reckon the glue on it is still good enough.
Finished Product! I could use the 600 lever bodies, as the pivoting area is cracking. The chrome plated parts were flaking and I dont wanna polish it up after what I went through with the name plates. The 600 levers and DA levers had chrome plated name plates and lever bodies. It looks good if it still is there. My pair had the chrome flaking and corroding away. I know there are chemical methods of removing chrome, but I just sanded down(took forever!), then polished up. The levers gun metal paint was is half dead condition, so I just sanded it down and then polished up.
Interesting notes:
- This has its own unique hoods, but the shape of the lever body will allow for the use of the same hoods as the RSX and RX100, which is also shared with the 105 SC levers(ST-1055).
- The 600 lever is very similar to the other STIs of that time, and parts are intechangable. I am using the RSX lever bodies.
Oh, and I will offer a service to rebuild STI levers. So far I have done the Sora(3300), 105(5500), RX100, RSX, and the 600 as above, but I am sure that I can get around to doing the others without too many problems. I will also gladly take in any broken shifters, or ones that do not work anymore. Please PM me if youre interested!
OTHER GUIDES for this lever
http://imgur.com/a/0tPBK" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
http://www.bikeforums.net/showthread.ph ... uild-guide" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
