open topic, for anything cycling related.
by bowie » Wed Apr 30, 2008 6:27 pm
Got my buckled wheel fixed today, $20 awesome..
Whilst i was there, bought two new tubes and two new awesome looking Red tyres for it
Get home.. 3/4 of the way getting the tyre on and I'm thinking to myself.. gee this is hard work, but then again i've never bought good quality tyres before $35 each  so I go with it.
Got the levers heading in every direction, skin is flying of the nuckles and I finally set it down exhausted..
Looking at it i think to myself.. There is no way this is the wrong size tyre.. I mean the shop whom repaired my wheel surely would have a fair idea of what size it freekin is...
Now I'm left with 3/4 of a wheel on.. and nothing for the rear tyre as so I can ride to uni tomorrow.
Note.. 700x23c does not fit on a 27x1 & 1/4 rim  (AT) myself for not checking and going at it like a bull at a gate
sigh... 
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by BNA » Wed Apr 30, 2008 6:32 pm
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by Shard » Wed Apr 30, 2008 6:32 pm
Amazing what 4mm of difference can do hey.
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by bowie » Wed Apr 30, 2008 6:34 pm
 to make maters worse..
Cant fine my tin snips..(quality tyres have wire.. who would have figured  ) so the half molested wheel is still attached to the rim for me to walk back into said shop in a pile of (look how lame I am everyone)  .... damit.
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by Bnej » Wed Apr 30, 2008 6:56 pm
Some soapy water might get the bead off.
Unless the rim is marked with the size the shop might have just assumed it was a 700c rim, not many people have 27" rims now.
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by mikesbytes » Wed Apr 30, 2008 7:40 pm
I had wondered what would happen if you put a 700c tyre on a 27" rim.
While it may be a tight fit to get the tyre off, it's not impossible. push the bead right in to the centre all the way around and then try to get it off. As per Bnej, a little bit of soap may help it slip off easier.
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by bowie » Wed Apr 30, 2008 10:47 pm
not impossible..
my 27" wheel says it is 
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by mikesbytes » Thu May 01, 2008 1:14 pm
I'm wondering if a particular model of 700c tyre may be loose enough to fit sufficiently correctly under 27" rim hooks.
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by 531db » Thu May 01, 2008 5:48 pm
mikesbytes wrote:I'm wondering if a particular model of 700c tyre may be loose enough to fit sufficiently correctly under 27" rim hooks.
Not a snowflakes chance in hell.
There is a 8mm difference in beadseat diameter. Multiply that by pi (3.14) and you would have to stretch the braided wire or kevlar bead of a 700C tyre by 25.12mm (near enough to an inch (25.4mm)), just to have the bead circumference as long as a 27" tyre.
531db.
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by mikeg » Thu May 01, 2008 7:15 pm
I have seen 27" versions of the Continental Gatorskins and also 27" Serfas Seca, which has an aramid protection layer, at several LBS in Sydney.
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by bowie » Thu May 01, 2008 9:47 pm
b is for bicycle 
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by rustychisel » Fri May 02, 2008 4:50 pm
Perfect candidate for a fixed gear, that one. 
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by 531db » Fri May 02, 2008 5:22 pm
Some of it might be be photography, but the saddle on that Viscount needs leveling out somewhat.
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by bowie » Fri May 02, 2008 5:31 pm
Perfect candidate for a fixed gear, that one. Wink
Others warned me about your "singles". The horrible things you wish to do to an otherwise perfectly practically porter.
The seat angle is perfect for avoiding nut injuries whilst I gather if the chain is going to slip or the gears move under speed. 
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by Bnej » Fri May 02, 2008 6:27 pm
Needs fresh bar tape, will make it much nicer to hold. And some Mr Sheen & elbow grease on the parts that are supposed to be shiny (not the bars, rims, saddle etc, makes things slippery!).
If you haven't done it yet, also think about a new set of brake pads - if they've been on there for a while they tend to harden a bit and lose effectiveness. For ~$20 it's a good investment in safety, especially with old single pivot brakes. Check the cable outers for cracks and the inners for rust too, that's another cheap replacement that can be very important.
Looks like a good buy though, pretty good nick for a cheap 2nd hand bike!
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by il padrone » Fri May 02, 2008 9:45 pm
bowie wrote:The seat angle is perfect for avoiding nut injuries whilst I gather if the chain is going to slip or the gears move under speed. 
You will find that if you lower the seat height a smidgin, side it forward so you sit on the rear platform, rather than the jewel-squashing middle, and tilt the saddle to level (or even slightly nose tilted up) you will be quite comfy. Your nuts should lay well clear of the saddle, with weight taken on your sit bones. This has the added advantage of putting less weight onto your arms. If the nose is slightly tilted up you will not be sliding forwards all the time. At present you would be constantly pushing yourself back, maybe without realising it as you've done it all your riding life.
Maybe your handlebars are a bit too low for the seat height too? Lots of new young road riders do this.
Try it! You can always change back if it does not work for you.
Here's my road bike seat angle
Perfectly comfotable (although I need to fit a shorter stem)
Riding bikes in traffic - what seems dangerous is usually safe; what seems safe is often more dangerous.
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by il padrone » Fri May 02, 2008 9:53 pm
Bnej wrote:If you haven't done it yet, also think about a new set of brake pads - if they've been on there for a while they tend to harden a bit and lose effectiveness.  My brake pads have been on the bike for 27 years. Seriously!! Still working great. I might take them off and give them a going over with the rasp, this takes of any hardened surface quite well. Bnej wrote:For ~$20 it's a good investment in safety, especially with old single pivot brakes.
And my brakes are old single pivot too.
Last edited by il padrone on Fri May 02, 2008 10:04 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Riding bikes in traffic - what seems dangerous is usually safe; what seems safe is often more dangerous.
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by bowie » Fri May 02, 2008 9:59 pm
Hmm alright I'll have a play and take note of what feels right. 
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by Bnej » Fri May 02, 2008 10:01 pm
il padrone wrote:  My brake pads have been on the bike for 27 years. Seriously!! Still working great. I might take them off and give them a going over with the rasp, this takes of any hardened surface quite well.
I'm sure it depends on the pad and how the bike was stored. If you can lock the brakes and you can hoist the back wheel, then you're probably okay. If there's cracks in the pads or you can't lock the back wheel then you need new ones.
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