Australian Cycling Forums - Bicycles Network Australia

Currently running the std bb5 cable discs on my Crockett and find them fairly inadequate coming off my mtb with Xt brakes.

Am thinking that the best/ most cost effective upgrade would be TRP HYRD cable/hydro callipers.
Anyone had experience with these?
Is it a worthwhile upgrade at approx $350 for a set or am i better off going for 105 or Ultegra hydraulic levers calipers and rear mech and cassette as i would heve to go to 11 spd.

The 11sp Mechanical shifters with Hydraulic brakes (Shimano RS685) Have been out of stock for about two months ( i have been eagerly awaiting them!). Best time i can see is early next week through c r c.
Keep in mind they are $600 the pair (for levers and calipers) Plus 11sp cassette chain and rear mech, it could get out of hand expensive quickly.
From what i have read on various forums, the TRP's are quite good. Kind of wishing i went that way myself now.

I'm a big fan of TRPs hylx but a bigger mate of mine (95kg) had had some overheating issues. So be weary of this. I came from bb7rs and they work well - nothing like the feel of a hydro though. You will not get close to XTs so don't expect miracles.

bb5's are woeful... even TRP Spyres at ~$200 will be a huge upgrade.

i've had BB7 S Roads, Hayes CX Expert and TRP Spyres. Spyres are my favourite, and the CX Experts on my other bike are decent too.

looking for some advice as im in a similar position.
im wanting to replace my avid BB7's as well and was thinking of changing the entire groupset to Shimano. Currently have SRAM force on a Giant TCX SLr 1

I saw SRAM have a hydraulic brake upgrade - http://www.this link is broken/sram-red-22-shi ... -brakeset/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; or http://www.this link is broken/sram-s700-hydra ... -brakeset/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

would either of those work with my current setup?

Depends whether you have/want 10 speed or 11 speed. Red 22 will only work with 11 speed ( as will new Force 22 and Rival 22) whereas the S700 is designed only for 10 speed drivetrains.

If what you have is 10 speed then I'd go for the S700 and sell your current Force brifters...BUT...do you really want to spend over $900 just to get hydro brakes on your bike?

You can get front and rear Ultegra Di2 shifter/calipers for $650 (of course you still need all the other expensive paraphenalia)

Wait a few years for SRAM and Shimano to stop gouging and grab a TRP cable hydro in the meantime or even Hope V-Twin. Job's done.

actually, Sram 10 and 11 speed road derailleurs are compatible.. so you could upgrade to 11 speed for the cost of shifters (brakes), cassette and a new chain.

but as SBD mentioned; S700 is 10 speed, the rest of Sram's hydro shifters are 11 speed.. but will be compatible with existing 10/11spd Sram gear.

thanks for the info guys

those Hopes look good but its already assembled.
how would one use that if they have internal routing?

tomee wrote:thanks for the info guys

those Hopes look good but its already assembled.
how would one use that if they have internal routing?

you can cut the line/remove the fitting from one end and feed it through, then rebleed the system. hope brakes are extremely easy to bleed.

IF you really need to go hydro why not retroshift?
http://www.gevenalle.com/store/products/shifters/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
Barcons work well with anything and really are a good way to shift gears if you like messing around with a cx bike with gears. Bust up a brifter and you are up for very big $$ plus you are stuck with no brakes and no shifting, Cant see how you could really break a retroshift lever so it wouldn't work but if you do and you just need one part. Again the bar cons shifters last for ever.
I am happy to wait for the hydro brifters to come down in price and go up in quality but in the meantime I would also go the hopes.

I ended up getting the trp ones. Will see how they go.
Thanks for the info

so picked up TRP and had a quick look, i dont think the rears will fit as the lever will hit the rear triangle as the mounts are on the inside

tomee wrote:so picked up TRP and had a quick look, i dont think the rears will fit as the lever will hit the rear triangle as the mounts are on the inside

are we talking Hy/Rd's or Spyre's? and what frame?

i've had TRP Spyre's on 2 frames with chainstay mounted brakes, no issues.

The hy/Rd and small frame

tomee wrote:The hy/Rd and small frame

ah. i know someone who had Hy/Rd's on a Crockett 5, but his would have been a large at least.

ok, got them to fit
i only managed to get the rears on tonight.

had to run some washers as spacers for the 160mm rotors

im doubting whether i made the right choice, the lever throw is all the way to the bar and the stopping power is worse than the BB7's it replaced. I tried to bed them in doing a couple of stops but the stopping power didnt change much.

with the lever on full lock i can still manage to move the wheel.
I'm not sure if i still need to bed them in some more.

tomee wrote:ok, got them to fit
i only managed to get the rears on tonight.
had to run some washers as spacers for the 160mm rotors

im doubting whether i made the right choice, the lever throw is all the way to the bar and the stopping power is worse than the BB7's it replaced. I tried to bed them in doing a couple of stops but the stopping power didnt change much.

with the lever on full lock i can still manage to move the wheel.
I'm not sure if i still need to bed them in some more.

what size rotors did you originally have, 140 on the rear?

it will take more than a couple of stops to bed them in properly... especially new pads AND rotors (i find new rotors take the longest to bed in)
you need to get them nice and hot to burn off all the crap, and apply a coating of the brake pad friction material to the rotor.

have you adjusted the brakes as per the instructions? given that you say you can still move the wheel with the lever fully pulled, sounds like there is some slack/poor adjustment somewhere. the wheel should be locked solid before the lever reaches the bar.

Yeah adjusted as per instructions. Lock the arm and then pull the cable as tight as possible.
If you have a look at my photo you can see the outer cable goes in on an angle. I've fixed this by zip tying the cable to the frame just before going to the caliper.
I'll clean the rotors and continue bedding in. Reading last night it seems it is common for these to have lever throw and trp say to top up fluid.

The rears were 140mm originally.