1952 Hobbs 'Blue Riband': the next iteration

User avatar
Clydesdale Scot
Posts: 1992
Joined: Tue Mar 03, 2009 12:55 pm
Location: Adelaide, SA

Re: 1952 Hobbs 'Blue Riband': the next iteration

Postby Clydesdale Scot » Sat Jul 28, 2018 11:54 am

I finally have the front hub that I am happy with, thanks Simon.
and the new strong rims in the Constrictor Asp style
Imagehubs and rims by philip.knight, on Flickr

the hubs and rims can go off for measuring and the spokes can be ordered from Britain.

and playing with the front end jewellry
Imagefront end progress by philip.knight, on Flickr

User avatar
Clydesdale Scot
Posts: 1992
Joined: Tue Mar 03, 2009 12:55 pm
Location: Adelaide, SA

Re: 1952 Hobbs 'Blue Riband': the next iteration

Postby Clydesdale Scot » Sat Aug 04, 2018 9:25 am

if Dare handlebar grips were good for the 1946 Hobbs of Barbican, then they are also good for the Blue Riband.
These came up on the British evilbay.
Imagedare grips by philip.knight, on Flickr

I was the only bidder (no surprises there).
So red grips to lift the conservative appearance.
And this needs to have red elsewhere.

Simon (a cycling friend who has a good eye for detail) has suggested red toe straps.
And I have thought I can have a red highlight on the chainset.
If you know your late 1940s/early 1950s British lightweight rare components you will know where this might be going.
Hobbs of Barbican produced some top end components under the Lytaloy name.

They are highly sought after whenever they appear.

But one of the rarest items is the Lytaloy chainset. Rare because they often cracked. It has been suggested to me that current knowledge of the alloy grades should provide a grade that will work.
So I am now chasing another rabbit down a hole and my drive-side survivor is being modelled by a professional. If that works, the model will go off for CNC machining.
ImageLytaloy chainring by philip.knight, on Flickr
Then I can paint the area around the name, and that will further repeat the red in the grips, and balance the appearance.
Just like on John's Alcon
But there will be a set of Williams cranks in the intervening period.

Johnj
Posts: 469
Joined: Sun Sep 06, 2009 10:53 am
Location: Sydney, Inner West

Re: 1952 Hobbs 'Blue Riband': the next iteration

Postby Johnj » Sat Aug 04, 2018 12:18 pm

I had the good fortune to buy a non-cracked NDS crank for the Alcon. Happy to send the cracked one to you if you like Phillip.

User avatar
Clydesdale Scot
Posts: 1992
Joined: Tue Mar 03, 2009 12:55 pm
Location: Adelaide, SA

Re: 1952 Hobbs 'Blue Riband': the next iteration

Postby Clydesdale Scot » Sat Aug 04, 2018 2:37 pm

that would help a great deal in modelling the 'missing' arm.
thanks

User avatar
singlespeedscott
Posts: 5275
Joined: Sun Jan 20, 2008 4:35 pm
Location: Elimbah, Queensland

Re: 1952 Hobbs 'Blue Riband': the next iteration

Postby singlespeedscott » Sat Aug 04, 2018 3:43 pm

I wouldn’t be using a CNCed crankarm modelled off a thin section forged one. If the forged item use to crack the CNC version will not last long.
Image

User avatar
Clydesdale Scot
Posts: 1992
Joined: Tue Mar 03, 2009 12:55 pm
Location: Adelaide, SA

Re: 1952 Hobbs 'Blue Riband': the next iteration

Postby Clydesdale Scot » Sun Aug 05, 2018 7:16 am

The CNC machining will be done by someone who makes crank arms for these. If Mick has concerns with the design, he has a clarity in his communication style which even I could not misinterpret.

User avatar
Clydesdale Scot
Posts: 1992
Joined: Tue Mar 03, 2009 12:55 pm
Location: Adelaide, SA

Re: 1952 Hobbs 'Blue Riband': the next iteration

Postby Clydesdale Scot » Sun Aug 19, 2018 10:20 am

The Sturmey Archer cable run. Conventionally the cable is run from the trigger through an outer cable to a fulcrum clip on the top tube. This fulcrum clip can be located to effectively change the cable length. The bare cable continues to pulley assembly located near the saddle then to the crimped cable termination housed in an inline adjuster, then a short chain into the SA hub.
Except this frame has a down tube mount.

From my reading, the cable run along the top tube and down close to parallel to the seat stays is preferred as it will allow a more consistent cable tension when the wheels are placed in the rear dropouts. This cable tension is critical for the operation of the gears. The end of the cable is terminated with a crimp (modern fittings have an alternate system that is bulky and not pleasing). This limits the ability to adjust the cable once it is installed.

I will try a few workarounds to achieve the same results.
The cable from the trigger:
ImageBR cable run 1 by philip.knight, on Flickr

into an inline adjuster:
ImageBR cable run 3 by philip.knight, on Flickr
The inline adjuster I have installed is to fill the role of the movable fulcrum clip.

into a modified cable stop:
ImageBR cable run 2 by philip.knight, on Flickr

then to the cable stops through some more housing (not shown)) then to the hub (yet to be built).
ImageBR cable run by philip.knight, on Flickr

The consistent placing of the rear wheel will be managed by the Cyclo chain tensioners shown.

The chainring and the crank arm have been modelled.
They are available for viewing (for a short time) at
https://autode.sk/2vQYmrr
https://autode.sk/2vPubRn

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users