Geoff Scott Clamont Professional

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Geoff Scott Clamont Professional

Postby Lots of steel bikes » Fri Feb 02, 2018 10:51 pm

A recent addition to the collection.
This bike is huge.
64cm c-c seat tube. 70 cm c-t
60cm top tube with 130mm stem
23cm head tube
I have long legs and on my bikes the pedal to saddle top is 97cm, this one is set at 103cm !
Reynolds 531 with Columbus dropouts.
Geoff built this in the early 90s.
Just love the splatter paint job.

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GaryF
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Re: Geoff Scott Clamont Professional

Postby GaryF » Sat Feb 03, 2018 8:56 am

Wow, that bike is huge. There are bridges with less steel in them, haha.

The slogan under his name says it all 'Master Frame Builder'. I know why you bought this one. It's helped along with that eye-catching splatter paint job.

I wonder just how often a frame builder is called upon to build a frame of this stature? I suppose the dimensions call for a slightly different construction method and I notice the extended seat tube. Reynolds 531 must provide the strength; i suppose it was used in aircraft construction in the past.

I do like Geoff Scott's personalised headset spacer - a nice touch.

Thanks for showing us.

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singlespeedscott
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Re: Geoff Scott Clamont Professional

Postby singlespeedscott » Sat Feb 03, 2018 8:59 am

Looking at the frame, I am guessing that it uses oversized MTB spec tubes to increase frame strength. This could explain the fillet brazing as OS lugs where not commonly available back then.
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find_bruce
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Re: Geoff Scott Clamont Professional

Postby find_bruce » Sat Feb 03, 2018 10:09 am

The crack around the bottom headset bearing looks nasty, but fortunately it sounds like you can't ride it anyway. I would need a ladder to get on & massive platform shoes to reach the pedals

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Re: Geoff Scott Clamont Professional

Postby Lots of steel bikes » Sat Feb 03, 2018 1:20 pm

find_bruce wrote:The crack around the bottom headset bearing looks nasty,

Hmm, I’m embarrassed that I didn’t notice that when I did a quick clean up.
Will have a close inspection.
Have been concentrating on removing the cantankerous seat post. Turns with an enormous amount of effort but no sign of pulling out.

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Re: Geoff Scott Clamont Professional

Postby uart » Sat Feb 03, 2018 2:04 pm

Lots of steel bikes wrote:Hmm, I’m embarrassed that I didn’t notice that when I did a quick clean up.
Will have a close inspection.

Yeah I thought it was just a bit of missing paint until Find Bruce mentioned it and I took a closer look at the photo. Hopefully it can be fixed.

Have been concentrating on removing the cantankerous seat post. Turns with an enormous amount of effort but no sign of pulling out.

Remove the cranks and spindle, turn it upside-down and pour about a cup of 50/50 acetone/ATF (auto transmission fluid) mixture down the seat tube and just leave it upside down like that for a few days. :)

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Re: Geoff Scott Clamont Professional

Postby Lots of steel bikes » Sat Feb 03, 2018 2:10 pm

uart wrote:
Lots of steel bikes wrote:

Have been concentrating on removing the cantankerous seat post. Turns with an enormous amount of effort but no sign of pulling out.

Remove the cranks and spindle, turn it upside-down and pour about a cup of 50/50 acetone/ATF (auto transmission fluid) mixture down the seat tube and just leave it upside down like that for a few days. :)


That’s where it sits at the moment. Got the fluid through the bidon cage holes.

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Re: Geoff Scott Clamont Professional

Postby uart » Sat Feb 03, 2018 2:43 pm

Lots of steel bikes wrote:That’s where it sits at the moment. Got the fluid through the bidon cage holes.
:D

Have been concentrating on removing the cantankerous seat post. Turns with an enormous amount of effort but no sign of pulling out.

Yeah, let it soak and just give it a little bit of a turn every now and then. The lube will eventually seep through. Having it turn, even just a tiny bit, is a huge plus here. Also, though I said 50/50 mix, you can use more acetone and less oil, as pretty much anything seeping through will get it started.

One last thing. Make sure that it's really the post that is turning (in the seat tube). Though they're normally one piece, I once come across a posts that had like an insert for the top part that takes the saddle. With a lot of force I got it turning a little bit, but I couldn't figure out why it wasn't freeing up. Eventually I notice that the post itself wasn't actually turning, just the top insert. Whoops :oops:

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Re: Geoff Scott Clamont Professional

Postby Lots of steel bikes » Fri Feb 23, 2018 5:46 pm

Lots of steel bikes wrote:
find_bruce wrote:The crack around the bottom headset bearing looks nasty,

Hmm, I’m embarrassed that I didn’t notice that when I did a quick clean up.
Will have a close inspection.

Had a close look and it’s not a crack, thank goodness. It’s the joint of the head tube and the steel collar. Has a collar at the top and bottom of the tube.

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Re: Geoff Scott Clamont Professional

Postby Lots of steel bikes » Fri Feb 23, 2018 5:58 pm

uart wrote:
Lots of steel bikes wrote:That’s where it sits at the moment. Got the fluid through the bidon cage holes.
:D

Have been concentrating on removing the cantankerous seat post. Turns with an enormous amount of effort but no sign of pulling out.


One last thing. Make sure that it's really the post that is turning (in the seat tube). Though they're normally one piece, I once come across a posts that had like an insert for the top part that takes the saddle. With a lot of force I got it turning a little bit, but I couldn't figure out why it wasn't freeing up. Eventually I notice that the post itself wasn't actually turning, just the top insert. Whoops :oops:

I put an indicator line on the top insert and the seat post shaft and am pleased to say it is the whole seat post that is moving. A small amount of penetrating fluid has leaked through so that’s a good sign. It still takes an almighty whack with a heavy hammer on an old saddle I have installed just to rotate the post a couple of millimeters.
I’ve tried a long lever on the nose of the saddle with no success at all. It needs the shock of a solid hit to move at all. I’ll give it more soaking time.

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Re: Geoff Scott Clamont Professional

Postby uart » Fri Feb 23, 2018 10:14 pm

Lots of steel bikes wrote:Had a close look and it’s not a crack, thank goodness. It’s the joint of the head tube and the steel collar. Has a collar at the top and bottom of the tube.
Ok that's a good thing. So basically it's just a braze on collar with a bit of a gap in the brazing, is that right?

Lots of steel bikes wrote: A small amount of penetrating fluid has leaked through so that’s a good sign. It still takes an almighty whack with a heavy hammer on an old saddle I have installed just to rotate the post a couple of millimeters.

Yes a good sign. Sounds like that thing is really stuck but be patient, it should be very satisfying when it eventually comes free. :)

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Re: Geoff Scott Clamont Professional

Postby Lots of steel bikes » Fri Feb 23, 2018 10:41 pm

uart wrote:
Lots of steel bikes wrote:Had a close look and it’s not a crack, thank goodness. It’s the joint of the head tube and the steel collar. Has a collar at the top and bottom of the tube.
Ok that's a good thing. So basically it's just a braze on collar with a bit of a gap in the brazing, is that right?

More like a bit of surface rust at the joint causing the paint to peel off.

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Re: Geoff Scott Clamont Professional

Postby GaryF » Sat Feb 24, 2018 10:03 am

I worked on a stuck handlebar stem off and on for the best part of a year before I finally had success in removing it. I didn't work on it constantly though, only when I could be bothered.

I hope you have a much shorter time frame. Good news regarding the suspected crack though.

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