Tips for internal gear cable routing.

[AUbicycles]

After unexpectedly needing to recable when the previous cable frayed while setting up a new rear derailleur, I managed to have that much trouble feeding the cable through that I had to start from scratch and build out the steerer. It was a good opportunity for a clean up but I still need to thread the new cable through and keen on bombproof advice. At the headset, bottom bracket and the ‘outlets’ it is tricky and where my provision solutions were too bulky to pass and (the tape connecting old and new... or a guiding string and cable) would brake.

Any clever tip to get the new cable threaded through gracefully? Currently the old cable is threaded, so need to get the new one and somehow connect reliably.

(thanks!)

[Tim]

On an older model TCR I recall tying a length of cotton to the end of the cable, feeding the cable and cotton into the frame and then sucking the cotton out the bottom bracket exit and rear frame hole with a vacuum cleaner. Then, gently pulling the cotton and guiding the cable out from inside the frame.
The plastic liner tubes on the later model Giant bikes makes feeding and fitting new cables relatively easy but don't go pulling the liners out without thinking about how to refit them.

[kb]

On an older model TCR I recall tying a length of cotton to the end of the cable, feeding the cable and cotton into the frame and then sucking the cotton out the bottom bracket exit and rear frame hole with a vacuum cleaner. Then, gently pulling the cotton and guiding the cable out from inside the frame.
The plastic liner tubes on the later model Giant bikes makes feeding and fitting new cables relatively easy but don't go pulling the liners out without thinking about how to refit them.

+1 cotton & vacuum

[Toyopet]

I've heard of metal and magnets, but like the cotton and vacuum idea better.

[Duck!]

If the existing cable is still in place, feed a thin plastic tube of sufficient length up the cable so it pokes out both entry and exit holes. Secure it by taping it to the frame to prevent slipping back in if necessary. Pull old cable out & feed new cable through the tube. Then remove tube once cable is fed through.

[AUbicycles]

Very nice!

Also like the thin cable idea but see a challenge getting the right tube. Shops are closed (I am OS)...

Bit more improvisation required.

[Tim]

I've used the tubing in these cable waterproofing kits as a guide in the past re Duck's method:
http://www.this link is broken.au/transfil-gear- ... proof-kit/
BUT, this tubing offers too much friction to a stainless PTFE cable if used to replace proper internally routed cable liners. Gear changing suffers with this stuff. It's cheap, soft plastic.
I've never known where to source the better quality, lower friction tubing.

[eeksll]

I've used the tubing in these cable waterproofing kits as a guide in the past re Duck's method:
http://www.this link is broken.au/transfil-gear- ... proof-kit/
BUT, this tubing offers too much friction to a stainless PTFE cable if used to replace proper internally routed cable liners. Gear changing suffers with this stuff. It's cheap, soft plastic.
I've never known where to source the better quality, lower friction tubing.

if you search on ebay "jagwire liner" you should find these

bike24 also have them here it is the liner used on the inside of their elite link cables. I use the nokon version. So I think they should be good enough.

As to how they connect up to other cables, I don't know.

I also read thison bike rumour this week. Probably can't actually source them yet though.

[AUbicycles]

My solution... well first the bad ones.

- Taping cables doesn't work.
- Supergluing and taping doesn't work
- Shrink wrap connectors doesn't work (because it wasn't a proper shrink wrap).

What did work is cotton - thanks for the tip. What I did however was use cotton thread to bind the two cables. It is thin enough and you can actually get a fairly good bind. The only tricky bit was the bottom braket as it didn't want to easily thread but very gently move both cables and not forcing too much, I was able to get the new cable threaded. And because I took care on the bar tape... wrapped it up and sticky taped ... all good.


But now the next problem. The new RD barrel adjuster wont screw in and I don't want to force it. I didn't realise at first but I could do the fine adjustment to get the shifting right and noticed that the screw wasn't able to screw in properly.

I checked on the other RD, the new screw was fine... so it is just the thread on the body of the new RD.

If I force it, then it could be a permanent problem if it doesn't find the tapped thread and makes a new one.

Currently looking at a warranty but welcome thoughts. Has mean that I missed out on the ride I wanted to do so keen to get a resolution pretty fast.

[eeksll]

If I force it, then it could be a permanent problem if it doesn't find the tapped thread and makes a new one.

Currently looking at a warranty but welcome thoughts. Has mean that I missed out on the ride I wanted to do so keen to get a resolution pretty fast.

use a inline cable adjuster to get your self going?

[MichaelB]

Patience.

No matter what method is used. Sometimes, it can just be a major PITA

[AUbicycles]

use a inline cable adjuster to get your self going?

Yes... but I I feel that is temporary when it isn't working properly. The good news is that the bike and a number of bearings got a bit of a cleanup.

Cheers
Christopher