Identifying a Bianchi? (Actually a Tamari)
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- uMP2k
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Postby uMP2k » Sat Jan 05, 2008 6:31 pm
True - but getting the rear re-spaced is not a big deal. Take it to any competent lbs and they should be able to help you.paulau wrote:I made a mistake in an earlier post, i got some vernier calipers out and the rear spacing is actually 126mm, so this changes my options quite a bit as the Ventos wont fit unless i get it widened.
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Postby mikesbytes » Sat Jan 05, 2008 8:23 pm
From what I have heard, its usually OK for steel frames but not OK for alloy framesMountGower wrote:I popped a 130mm wheel in to a 126mm 4130 crmo frame yesterday. No arguement. I'm not sure it's good advice but as for myself, I'm happy enough.
If the R-1 rule is broken, what happens to N+1?
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Postby paulau » Sat Jan 05, 2008 8:56 pm
Ok thats good news with the rear spacing.
I've been riding it quite a bit over the last few days.
With the vernier calipers the bars are 25.5mm.
The stem is to big for me at 110mm and i would better with say a 75mm or so, maybe the frame is on the bigger side for me.
I tried a stem tonight off a track bike with a different angle, liked the angle more, but it was still 110mm long.
Paul
I've been riding it quite a bit over the last few days.
With the vernier calipers the bars are 25.5mm.
The stem is to big for me at 110mm and i would better with say a 75mm or so, maybe the frame is on the bigger side for me.
I tried a stem tonight off a track bike with a different angle, liked the angle more, but it was still 110mm long.
Paul
Last edited by paulau on Sat Oct 18, 2008 5:45 pm, edited 2 times in total.
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Postby europa » Sat Jan 05, 2008 10:31 pm
That frame's a good size for you mate. Look at the amount of seat post showing. The modern fashion for very small frames only works if you want your bars very low which clearly you don't at the moment.paulau wrote: maybe the frame is on the bigger side for me.
Richard
I had a good bike ... so I fixed it
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Postby Mulger bill » Sun Jan 06, 2008 10:53 am
Umm, Paul...
What's that inside the steerer tube, looks like a headset lockwasher to me?
Shaun
What's that inside the steerer tube, looks like a headset lockwasher to me?
Shaun
...whatever the road rules, self-preservation is the absolute priority for a cyclist when mixing it with motorised traffic.
London Boy 29/12/2011
London Boy 29/12/2011
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Postby paulau » Wed Jan 09, 2008 7:23 pm
Ok i've been riding it a little more and reach to the bars seems a little long.
Here are a couple of pics of me on the bike.
The stem is 110mm long and i've got a 80mm coming to try out.
I just want to get these things sorted before i spend any real money on the bike.
Top tube is 55cm.
Face blurred so as not to be immortalized in this thread
Here are a couple of pics of me on the bike.
The stem is 110mm long and i've got a 80mm coming to try out.
I just want to get these things sorted before i spend any real money on the bike.
Top tube is 55cm.
Face blurred so as not to be immortalized in this thread
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Postby stevendavid75 » Wed Jan 09, 2008 8:19 pm
getting pretty close,
I would possibly suggest that you toll the bars forward a little bit.
BTW someone has done a pretty good job painting the frame to PANTANI era.
Tamari does sound familiar, I have some bikes mags from around the early 80's and for some reason that rings a bell, I would check but they are on the other side of the continent.
I would possibly suggest that you toll the bars forward a little bit.
BTW someone has done a pretty good job painting the frame to PANTANI era.
Tamari does sound familiar, I have some bikes mags from around the early 80's and for some reason that rings a bell, I would check but they are on the other side of the continent.
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Postby paulau » Thu Jan 10, 2008 11:50 am
It was a loose washer, should sort itself out when I change the stem, it all seems secureMulger bill wrote:Umm, Paul...
What's that inside the steerer tube, looks like a headset lockwasher to me?
I've searched alot for any info on Tamari, but can find none. Only the other thread on this forum.stevendavid75 wrote: BTW someone has done a pretty good job painting the frame to PANTANI era.
Tamari does sound familiar, I have some bikes mags from around the early 80's and for some reason that rings a bell, I would check but they are on the other side of the continent.
if you ever get a chance to look at those mags then let me know
Paul
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Postby europa » Thu Jan 10, 2008 12:59 pm
Paul, have a look at the photo with you on the drops, then note the angle in your elbow. That shows you have plenty of room. If you were to shorten the reach to the extent that the angle in your elbow was less than 90 degrees, you would feel cramped.
So, considering that you feel stretched out and considering that you actually do have plenty of room, a shorter neck is certainly on the cards.
But before you go buying stuff, try these experiments.
1 - when riding and feeling strong (ie, before you get tired but after you've wamed up), how do you feel on the hoods? Still over stretched or is that only when you're tired?
2 - move your hands back from the hoods a little so that you are still on that ramp that leads to the hoods, but not actually on them. There are a variety of riding positions along there too. I often ride with my last two fingers lightly wrapped around the bars and the rest of my hands on the hoods.
3 - see how you feel when riding the flats ie, the cross piece of the bars - still stretched out or nicely upright and comfy? Especially test this when you're tired (gee, you'll have to go for a nice long ride, ain't life hard )
Based on those experiences, try to get a feel for how much you want to move the bars. The easy way is to get hold of a series of necks and try them all, but if you don't have that option ...
On my Jamis, my reach sometimes feels a tad long. However, when I'm feeling strong and riding strongly, I feel perfectly at home on the hoods. As I get tired, I can move my hands back a little, effectively shortening my reach - the bars I have make this very comfortable. When knackered, sitting up with my hands on the flats works well. Importantly, I can ride the hooks comfortably ie, I'm not cramped and it's easy to become so when you ride with the bars at saddle level like I do. Overall then, my reach is fine and really demonstrates (to me anyway) the ability of a good set up to handle the rider in all states of strength and stuffedness.
As suggested above, you'll probably find the bars more comfortable if you rotate them down a little so that the ramps are horizontal (they look tilted upright at the moment).
Richard
So, considering that you feel stretched out and considering that you actually do have plenty of room, a shorter neck is certainly on the cards.
But before you go buying stuff, try these experiments.
1 - when riding and feeling strong (ie, before you get tired but after you've wamed up), how do you feel on the hoods? Still over stretched or is that only when you're tired?
2 - move your hands back from the hoods a little so that you are still on that ramp that leads to the hoods, but not actually on them. There are a variety of riding positions along there too. I often ride with my last two fingers lightly wrapped around the bars and the rest of my hands on the hoods.
3 - see how you feel when riding the flats ie, the cross piece of the bars - still stretched out or nicely upright and comfy? Especially test this when you're tired (gee, you'll have to go for a nice long ride, ain't life hard )
Based on those experiences, try to get a feel for how much you want to move the bars. The easy way is to get hold of a series of necks and try them all, but if you don't have that option ...
On my Jamis, my reach sometimes feels a tad long. However, when I'm feeling strong and riding strongly, I feel perfectly at home on the hoods. As I get tired, I can move my hands back a little, effectively shortening my reach - the bars I have make this very comfortable. When knackered, sitting up with my hands on the flats works well. Importantly, I can ride the hooks comfortably ie, I'm not cramped and it's easy to become so when you ride with the bars at saddle level like I do. Overall then, my reach is fine and really demonstrates (to me anyway) the ability of a good set up to handle the rider in all states of strength and stuffedness.
As suggested above, you'll probably find the bars more comfortable if you rotate them down a little so that the ramps are horizontal (they look tilted upright at the moment).
Richard
I had a good bike ... so I fixed it
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Postby paulau » Thu Jan 10, 2008 1:26 pm
Actualy on the hoods is where i feel the most stretch out, i feel most comfortbale sitting my hands a bit back, but its to far to have easy access to the brake. Its about the same when i'm tired or when i just start out.europa wrote:1 - when riding and feeling strong (ie, before you get tired but after you've wamed up), how do you feel on the hoods? Still over stretched or is that only when you're tired?
The flats dont feel as bad as when i'm on the drops or the hoods.europa wrote: 3 - see how you feel when riding the flats ie, the cross piece of the bars - still stretched out or nicely upright and comfy? Especially test this when you're tired (gee, you'll have to go for a nice long ride, ain't life hard )
Thanks for the info, i'll go for a ride tonight, if it cools down enough!
Paul
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Postby Mulger bill » Thu Jan 10, 2008 2:41 pm
That's be great Steven, anything is greatly appreciated.stevendavid75 wrote:Tamari does sound familiar, I have some bikes mags from around the early 80's and for some reason that rings a bell, I would check but they are on the other side of the continent.
Shaun
...whatever the road rules, self-preservation is the absolute priority for a cyclist when mixing it with motorised traffic.
London Boy 29/12/2011
London Boy 29/12/2011
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Postby europa » Thu Jan 17, 2008 9:40 pm
If he's used a commercial item, there should be a bolt to turn at the top. Loosen that off, then give it a whack with a hammer - it's pulling up a tensioner that's hanging off the bottom of the extension and loosening the bolt, then giving a hard whack, just knocks the tensioner loose. Exactly the same as a quill (if you've ever used one).
However, that close up makes me wonder if he hasn't just jammed a pipe in there
Richard
However, that close up makes me wonder if he hasn't just jammed a pipe in there
Richard
I had a good bike ... so I fixed it
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Postby Mulger bill » Thu Jan 17, 2008 9:50 pm
My thoughts too, I'd pull the fork and let the LBS have a look, brute force may just destroy that lovely fork, a capital crime in my book.europa wrote:However, that close up makes me wonder if he hasn't just jammed a pipe in there
Richard
You could also go a direct swap for the chrome Gippieme unit on my Tamari if you wish.......
Shaun
...whatever the road rules, self-preservation is the absolute priority for a cyclist when mixing it with motorised traffic.
London Boy 29/12/2011
London Boy 29/12/2011
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