How hard is it to sell 2nd hand tubular wheelset?

[Thoglette]

I am also wondering how you run the 40mm tyres Jan Heine advocates if you are running those puncture prone tubulars?

Fat out back, skinny up front

[warthog1]

I always carried a spare strip in races (tucked up under the seat) and never had to pull out of a race because of a puncture. I still carried one when doing the Bribie Tri bike leg.

I'm still in recover mode and ride when I feel up to it.

Foo

So you are in the scratch group at 40+ kmh. You puncture, peel the glued single off, pull the spare off under your seat, reinstall, reinflate, and chase back on like nothing has happened.
Nobody I raced with was able to do that and I certainly couldn't.

With respect to training on a slower tyre, sure use a more puncture resistant tubeless for that and use your corsa + or similar to race on.

I find it a bit frustrating reading welded on anti- tubeless opinion from those who haven't used them I must admit. I view it as uninformed

You follow me on Strava. Have a look how many ks I've done in the last few years. Apart from the zwift it is all on tubeless. It is the go ime.

[warthog1]

I am also wondering how you run the 40mm tyres Jan Heine advocates if you are running those puncture prone tubulars?

Fat out back, skinny up front

[foo on patrol]

I always carried a spare strip in races (tucked up under the seat) and never had to pull out of a race because of a puncture. I still carried one when doing the Bribie Tri bike leg.

I'm still in recover mode and ride when I feel up to it.

Foo

So you are in the scratch group at 40+ kmh. You puncture, peel the glued single off, pull the spare off under your seat, reinstall, reinflate, and chase back on like nothing has happened.
Nobody I raced with was able to do that and I certainly couldn't.

With respect to training on a slower tyre, sure use a more puncture resistant tubeless for that and use your corsa + or similar to race on.

I find it a bit frustrating reading welded on anti- tubeless opinion from those who haven't used them I must admit. I view it as uninformed

You follow me on Strava. Have a look how many ks I've done in the last few years. Apart from the zwift it is all on tubeless. It is the go ime.

Why would I want too spend $1000's on buying new wheels? I have 3 sets of road wheels for different conditions and races and the cost to replace them would be near $6000, no thanks and I don' need to be cleaning sticky goop of the frame and me.

Foo

[warthog1]

Why would I want too spend $1000's on buying new wheels? I have 3 sets of road wheels for different conditions and races and the cost to replace them would be near $6000, no thanks and I don' need to be cleaning sticky goop of the frame and me.

Foo

Fair enough don't.
I have 3 sets of tubeless wheels. It was a lot less than 6k.

I'll take wiping off a bit of dried latex to puncturing and with respect to repairing a puncture I can tell you a plug is quicker and easier to repair one and get going again than pulling off a flat tubular.


Here is a bit more info for you.
https://www.cyclingweekly.com/news/is-t ... he-cobbles

As Derny says, a tubular sticking to the rim when it flats is about the only remaining advantage.

[Duck!]

As Derny says, a tubular sticking to the rim when it flats is about the only remaining advantage.

The locking beads of tubeless largely remove that advantage of tubulars.

[DernyDriver]

So you are in the scratch group at 40+ kmh. You puncture, peel the glued single off, pull the spare off under your seat, reinstall, reinflate, and chase back on like nothing has happened.
Nobody I raced with was able to do that and I certainly couldn't.

I once punctured in the second scratch group which started 3 minutes in front of scratch. I was on clinchers. It was 11 km into the race so the gap was probably 2.40 or something. I took the rear wheel out, whipped the tyre off, changed the tube and pumped it up with a hand pump and manage to jump onto scratch as they came by. Im pretty proud of that effort lol .... mind you my dad could change tyres even faster without using any levers, just his hands

[warthog1]

So you are in the scratch group at 40+ kmh. You puncture, peel the glued single off, pull the spare off under your seat, reinstall, reinflate, and chase back on like nothing has happened.
Nobody I raced with was able to do that and I certainly couldn't.

I once punctured in the second scratch group which started 3 minutes in front of scratch. I was on clinchers. It was 11 km into the race so the gap was probably 2.40 or something. I took the rear wheel out, whipped the tyre off, changed the tube and pumped it up with a hand pump and manage to jump onto scratch as they came by. Im pretty proud of that effort lol .... mind you my dad could change tyres even faster without using any levers, just his hands

That is a great effort!!

[warthog1]

The locking beads of tubeless largely remove that advantage of tubulars.

Not about to test it on my carbon wheels

[g-boaf]

So you are in the scratch group at 40+ kmh. You puncture, peel the glued single off, pull the spare off under your seat, reinstall, reinflate, and chase back on like nothing has happened.
Nobody I raced with was able to do that and I certainly couldn't.

I once punctured in the second scratch group which started 3 minutes in front of scratch. I was on clinchers. It was 11 km into the race so the gap was probably 2.40 or something. I took the rear wheel out, whipped the tyre off, changed the tube and pumped it up with a hand pump and manage to jump onto scratch as they came by. Im pretty proud of that effort lol .... mind you my dad could change tyres even faster without using any levers, just his hands

I can remember on clinchers - one particular set of wheels those were an absolute b....tard to change tyres on. Even with the usual tricks. I dreaded those.

[Duck!]

The locking beads of tubeless largely remove that advantage of tubulars.

Not about to test it on my carbon wheels

They're typically the most secure, therefore safest to run flat.

[Duck!]

I can remember on clinchers - one particular set of wheels those were an absolute b....tard to change tyres on. Even with the usual tricks. I dreaded those.

I'm going to take a stab at a combination of Alex Rims and Vittoria tyres. That pairing was always the most troublesome for me when I was in The Biz.....

[warthog1]

The locking beads of tubeless largely remove that advantage of tubulars.

Not about to test it on my carbon wheels

They're typically the most secure, therefore safest to run flat.

Rim damage was my point of concern.

[SydneyRider]

I started racing with the St George cycling club in 1980. I started training on high pressures (clinchers) but in those days the rims were 27" and singles (tubulars) were 700c and they still are. I needed to adjust the brake blocks every time I swapped out the wheels to race, so I bought another pair of wheels with Campagnolo Record hubs and Mavic GP4 rims and trained on those. From then until 2002 I always trained and raced on singles. From 2002 onwards I trained on high pressures, and they were greatly improved from 20 years earlier. For racing though, I would always choose singles over other tyre and rim combinations. I remember an article by former professional rider Marcel Wust where he discussed clinchers verses tubulars. The point that really sticks is what he said if you're on a fast decent and your tyre blows out. In a straight line with a clincher you have zero chance of staying up, but with a tubular you have a chance.

Apologies for digressing from the OP's question.

[Thoglette]

Apologies for digressing from the OP's question.

To digress further: has anyone seen a “traditional” tyre repair kit with thread, needles, glues etc. for sale anywhere?

I need to restock and it would be nice to get one. Pointers to stores with supplies (this side ofthe pacific) would be welcomed too!

[zebee]

Apparently the go now is disc brakes and carbon rims with no hook on the rims to hold the tubeless tyres on. So if something goes a little bit wrong it blows apart.

https://www.renehersecycles.com/uae-tou ... t-is-safe/

[warthog1]

Apparently the go now is disc brakes and carbon rims with no hook on the rims to hold the tubeless tyres on. So if something goes a little bit wrong it blows apart.

https://www.renehersecycles.com/uae-tou ... t-is-safe/

Got some. Bought them as race wheels for the gravel bike, but bugger it, cbfed racing anymore at my age.
Repurposed them as road wheels for that bike. Light bicycle WR50 with DT350 hubs, sapim cx ray spokes and brass nipples, pretty happy with them.



They are 25mm int 32 ext.
A 28 on the front and 32 on the rear. 55psi is heaps at my weight (76kg).
The 28 used to comply with the etrto recommendations but no longer does. Will run 30mm at both ends eventually. Have a few thousand ks on them at those pressures, which due to the added width and volume is quite firm. Not in the least concerned about the tyre unseating even if it is the same size tyre that unseated in that race. I haven't inflated them very hard but yes will go larger on the front next time.
If you are going to run them, run larger tyres so you don't need high pressure imo. Happy enough for that reason. Wouldn't bother if I was a heavy bloke though.