New road bike. What's your desire ?

[trailgumby]

New wheels.

[jasonc]

*gasp* tg. The writing on the tyres don't line up with the valves

[Tim]

*gasp* tg. The writing on the tyres don't line up with the valves

Looks to me as though he's meticulously lined the writing up precisely opposite the valves.
A better appearance IMO.

[trailgumby]

*gasp* tg. The writing on the tyres don't line up with the valves

Looks to me as though he's meticulously lined the writing up precisely opposite the valves.
A better appearance IMO.

Correct! Valves should be at the bottom and labels right side up and readable.

I have also lined up the labels on the rear hub with the valve hole. Couldn't do the front as it is wrapped circumferentially.

[Duck!]

*gasp* tg. The writing on the tyres don't line up with the valves

Looks to me as though he's meticulously lined the writing up precisely opposite the valves.
A better appearance IMO.

Correct! Valves should be at the bottom and labels right side up and readable.

I have also lined up the labels on the rear hub with the valve hole. Couldn't do the front as it is wrapped circumferentially.

Tyre labels should align with the valves, makes them easy to find for adjusting pressure. Most tyre manufacturers orient the labels so they're readable at the top of the wheel, but just to be different Schwalbe do theirs ar$e-about.... So valves go where the labels can be read.

[trailgumby]

Looks to me as though he's meticulously lined the writing up precisely opposite the valves.
A better appearance IMO.

Correct! Valves should be at the bottom and labels right side up and readable.

I have also lined up the labels on the rear hub with the valve hole. Couldn't do the front as it is wrapped circumferentially.

Tyre labels should align with the valves, makes them easy to find for adjusting pressure. Most tyre manufacturers orient the labels so they're readable at the top of the wheel, but just to be different Schwalbe do theirs ar$e-about.... So valves go where the labels can be read.

Somebody needs to tell Cannondale.

But then, they're the ones who came up with the Lefty, so following convention is not their strong suit . This is how it came out of the box. The barcode sticker is still on the spoke.

[Mr Purple]

Tyre labels should align with the valves, makes them easy to find for adjusting pressure. Most tyre manufacturers orient the labels so they're readable at the top of the wheel, but just to be different Schwalbe do theirs ar$e-about.... So valves go where the labels can be read.

I really like the Schwalbe Pro Ones. My one warning about them would be they put a transparent plastic sticker on the 'tubed use only' marking that works its way loose about 150km into the life of the tyres and starts rattling, making you think your tyre is delaminating while descending Cootha at 70km/hr.

[MichaelB]

New wheels.

Noice.

What was it like building with straight spokes (vs J-bend) ?

[trailgumby]

New wheels.

Noice.

What was it like building with straight spokes (vs J-bend) ?

No real difference, except I had to use the Sapim bladed spoke holder to align the blade at the hub as well as the nipple end. The Progress hubs' spoke holes were nicely aligned for the expected dishing, and the spokes didn't rub on each other, so I probably didn't need to stress relieve the spokes but did it anyway.

Trying to build straight pull with round spokes is trickier. If you were a perfectionist you would apply tape flags near both ends to indicate spoke twist as you were building

I'm stumped as to why straight pull are 50% more expensive than J-bend - there's one less machining operation as you don't have to bend the head over. I probably won't go that way again.

[g-boaf]

Trek Madone with some strange design happening...

https://www.trekbikes.com/au/en_AU/proj ... 6430093991

[g-boaf]

I had a look at the new Madone last weekend, it is nice but very, very expensive. In top spec it is over $20K. Too much for SRAM Red E-tap AXS. My bike is comparable and not nearly that costly.

Today I had a look at a new Canyon Aeroad CFR - that's quite a nice machine. Seems pretty fast - although its rider is also quite powerful.

[Mr Purple]

There's definitely diminishing returns at the $20k level.

$8-10k gets you the lightest weight frame with Ultegra DI2 in most brands (though you may have to wait for a sale). That'll do me. It'll run so close to 7kg it won't matter anyhow.

Still usually have some fatal flaw though (alloy bars or inappropriate wheels usually). At least that's comparatively cheap to fix.

[jasonc]

Still usually have some fatal flaw though (alloy bars or inappropriate wheels usually). At least that's comparatively cheap to fix.

At least those are fixable. The amount of bikes now that run cables through the steerer making the replacement of headset bearings a PITA
I still like the aethos

[Mr Purple]

I still like the aethos

As do I. I can see my next new bike being one of those.

Probably a few years off though. My current bike has the correct weight, and the only real issues are the lack of Di2 (and frame incompatible with it) and tyre clearance only for 26mm.

[warthog1]

At least those are fixable. The amount of bikes now that run cables through the steerer making the replacement of headset bearings a PITA
I still like the aethos

How often do you need to replace headset bearings?
I never have, not exactly fast turning or badly exposed to road grime.
Hydraulic brake lines make things more of a pita generally though, I agree.
Still worth it to remove brake wear from the wheel.

[jasonc]

How often do you need to replace headset bearings?

I get less than 2 years out of a set. I sweat lots. My previous bike the seal on the top bearing wasn't as good. They used last less than 18 months

[warthog1]

How often do you need to replace headset bearings?

I get less than 2 years out of a set. I sweat lots. My previous bike the seal on the top bearing wasn't as good. They used last less than 18 months

My Cervelo S5 is 10 years old. Same headset bearings. Second hand TCR who knows? Still fine. I don't stick em on the trainer though. Have a cheaper drone for that.

[jasonc]

How often do you need to replace headset bearings?

I get less than 2 years out of a set. I sweat lots. My previous bike the seal on the top bearing wasn't as good. They used last less than 18 months

My Cervelo S5 is 10 years old. Same headset bearings. Second hand TCR who knows? Still fine. I don't stick em on the trainer though. Have a cheaper drone for that.

I don't use them for trainer duty either

[g-boaf]

How often do you need to replace headset bearings?

I get less than 2 years out of a set. I sweat lots. My previous bike the seal on the top bearing wasn't as good. They used last less than 18 months

My Cervelo S5 is 10 years old. Same headset bearings. Second hand TCR who knows? Still fine. I don't stick em on the trainer though. Have a cheaper drone for that.

I must be lucky that I don’t sweat too much. On the trainer I have a big industrial fan going and AC running so I don’t overheat too much. I also have a Kickr Bike which is so much easier to deal with.

All my bikes have been pretty reliable as far as headsets go.

I can’t see any new bikes that are worth changing over to. The S5 is still a crazy fast bike as it is.

[davehirst]

I need faster legs, not a faster bike

[blizzard]

Still usually have some fatal flaw though (alloy bars or inappropriate wheels usually). At least that's comparatively cheap to fix.

At least those are fixable. The amount of bikes now that run cables through the steerer making the replacement of headset bearings a PITA
I still like the aethos

I've never had to change headset bearings, so I'm more concerned with the compromises with propriety steerer shapes and stems that often come with integrated cables. Also, the fact that if you buy a complete bike they often have a fixed stem length and handlebar width, with a lot of bikes running cables through the stem, it can be a very expensive to get your fit right.

If I was to buy a bike now, I would be looking at building up a frameset, specifically because you can choose all the components to fit you. Also a lot of brands complete bikes don't actually give you any discounts over a frame up build.

Frames at the top of my list would be Giant TCR / Propel and the Cervelo Soloist with Ultegra DI2 and potentially an after market crank and LB or similar wheels with Dt Swiss 240 hubs.

[Mr Purple]

If I was to buy a bike now, I would be looking at building up a frameset, specifically because you can choose all the components to fit you. Also a lot of brands complete bikes don't actually give you any discounts over a frame up build.

Frames at the top of my list would be Giant TCR / Propel and the Cervelo Soloist with Ultegra DI2 and potentially an after market crank and LB or similar wheels with Dt Swiss 240 hubs.

This is what I did last time, my mistake was being 'boutique' and buying a Bowman frame which cracked inside two years.

I think I'd do the same - but maybe with a more mainstream frame next time. I'm thinking Aethos with Dura-Ace shifters, crankset and derailleurs, Ultegra chain and cassette (they wear), and Farsports DT240 wheelset. Pick the parts correctly and it'll be well under 7kg and about the $10k mark.

Yes, I know aero is faster than lightweight but not for what I'm using it for.

[jasonc]

Mr Purple. I would almost go the same build as you except I would go opposite with the groupset. I would go ultegra shifters, derailleurs, chain and cassette with dura-ace crank.
I would possibly consider dura-ace shifters. But the derailleurs aren't worth the extra
Still be under 7kgs

[blizzard]

If I was to buy a bike now, I would be looking at building up a frameset, specifically because you can choose all the components to fit you. Also a lot of brands complete bikes don't actually give you any discounts over a frame up build.

Frames at the top of my list would be Giant TCR / Propel and the Cervelo Soloist with Ultegra DI2 and potentially an after market crank and LB or similar wheels with Dt Swiss 240 hubs.

This is what I did last time, my mistake was being 'boutique' and buying a Bowman frame which cracked inside two years.

I think I'd do the same - but maybe with a more mainstream frame next time. I'm thinking Aethos with Dura-Ace shifters, crankset and derailleurs, Ultegra chain and cassette (they wear), and Farsports DT240 wheelset. Pick the parts correctly and it'll be well under 7kg and about the $10k mark.

Yes, I know aero is faster than lightweight but not for what I'm using it for.

I used to think the same for cassettes but since changed my mind, in terms of weight saving, the DA cassette is one of big ones. DA chains aren't much more than Ultegra. If you keep on top of the chain maintenance the cassette should last 20,000+ km.

[g-boaf]

If I was to buy a bike now, I would be looking at building up a frameset, specifically because you can choose all the components to fit you. Also a lot of brands complete bikes don't actually give you any discounts over a frame up build.

Frames at the top of my list would be Giant TCR / Propel and the Cervelo Soloist with Ultegra DI2 and potentially an after market crank and LB or similar wheels with Dt Swiss 240 hubs.

This is what I did last time, my mistake was being 'boutique' and buying a Bowman frame which cracked inside two years.

I think I'd do the same - but maybe with a more mainstream frame next time. I'm thinking Aethos with Dura-Ace shifters, crankset and derailleurs, Ultegra chain and cassette (they wear), and Farsports DT240 wheelset. Pick the parts correctly and it'll be well under 7kg and about the $10k mark.

Yes, I know aero is faster than lightweight but not for what I'm using it for.

I think the Aethos is not worth the bother now, you can get bikes that do both aero and lightweight these days, without paying a huge amount for Specialized:

https://www.canyon.com/en-au/road-bikes ... imate/cfr/

That's the top Canyon lightweight frame, a kind of successor to my old CF Evo 10.0 Ltd. It's a decent price compared to my old one which was $18,599 back in 2017/2018.